New Faces of watches

Salon international de la Haute Horlogerie, or SiHH, is the first major international luxury watch exhibition of the year. For a week in January, in Geneva, over a dozen of the best brands in watchmaking showcase their innovation and novelties for the coming year. while most brands prefer to keep their major launches under wraps until the event itself, it is customary to unveil a small collection of preview pieces in the weeks leading up to the fair. Think of these as teasers to get the crowds in. indulge showcases some of the best preview pieces from SiHH 2012 and tells you why these pieces matter. Piqued? Then watch out for in-depth SiHH profiles, interviews and reviews in the issues to come. a. lange and Söhne datOGraph auF ab / Why it matters: A new interpretation of Lange's classic 1999 Datograph model, with a bigger dial, date, and a power reserve indicator. Also, how can you ignore a Lange watch? Price: 69,000 audemarS Piguet OpeN-wOrked extra-thiN rOyal Oak limited editiON Why it matters: This year marks the 40th anniversary of Audemars Piguet's groundbreaking royal Oak collection, the first serious luxury watch in steel. Collectors are going to fall over each other to lap up this year's pieces. Price: to be announced. indulgent. Baume and mercier CapelaNd FlybaCk ChrONOGraph blaCk dial Why it matters: Baume took a big gamble last year with a fundamental rethink of what the brand means. it adopted a new seaside living theme that reflected in everything from the booth at the fair to the marketing. This chronograph is a smaller, slightly more refined version of a handsome piece launched last year. Price: 7,100 Swiss francs girard-Perregaux 1966 aNNual CaleNdar aNd equatiON OF time Why it matters: Yet another elegant, refined piece from a company known for elegant, refined pieces. This new version of a 2009 piece has a ruthenium dial in a pink gold case. Spend hours telling your friends what equation of time really means. Price: 31,000 Swiss francs greuBel ForSey Gmt Why it matters: when Greubel Forsey decides to make a watch, it pulls out all the stops. So while other brands seek to make a GMT piece with an extra hand or a clever locating ring of some kind, GF decides to insert an entire globe. But this is the thing: they pull it off. Outstanding mechanisms at prices to match. Price: $650,000 cartier CadraN lOvé tOurbillON Why it matters: Cartier continues resolutely on the fine watchmaking path. This may not have the quintessential elegance of a classic Cartier Tank. But it is big, bold and pretty complicated. Promises to be part of a large, intriguing collection from the maison this year. Price: 95,000 iWc SchaFFhauSen tOp GuN miramar pilOt w atCh Why it matters: Last year, iwC was all about the bucolic italian refinement of the Portofino collection. The booth even had an italian gelato stand inside. This year, there is a stonking huge fighter jet--it is the year of the aviator watch. An unusual look as far as iwC goes. But a subtle reminder from the brand, perhaps, that there is more afoot at Schaffhausen than just the Portuguese. Price: R10.17 lakh