New Faces of watches - 2

montbLanC coLLection viLLeret 1858 vintage tachyDate Why it matters: How far this brand has come in the last few years. As recently as 2010, people were wondering why Montblanc was putting in so much effort into its timepieces. And today, it appears that the brand's watch business is set to overtake revenue from its signature pens. This piece is a glimpse into a very broad range of launches in 2012. The design and numbering are just the perfect amount of retro. Price: to be announced.    Panerai Luminor marina 3 Days Why it matters: Plenty of launches from Panerai this year. enough, perhaps, for a couple of exclusive pages. But, for now, a preview piece that is unmistakeably Panerai. Note the 72 hours power reserve and the clean, uncluttered face. Big, strong, well-made watches that, surprisingly, are popular with both sexes. Price: to be announced.    Jaeger-LeCouLtre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire 40.5 Why it matters: JLC, as befits a brand that iron Man wears in the movies, likes to do things in style. So this piece may only be the tip of the iceberg when it comes to 2012 launches. Still, a handsome piece that is a downsized version of the Duometre launched last year. Also, do note the foudroyante stop seconds hand at six o'clock. Price: to be announced.    JeanriChard Diverscope Lpr Why it matters: Hard to not fall in love with Jeanrichard's wonderful case designs. The brand's products with round bezel on tonneau case deserves to be more famous. The Diverscope is based on the in-house Jr1010 movement and has a cute linear power reserve indicator behind the number 12 that fills up and empties. Price: 8,900    Swiss francs Parmigiani FLeurier tonDa annuaL caLenDar Why it matters: One of the smaller, independent brands at the fair, Parmigiani nonetheless makes serious watches with plenty of signature quirks including the tear-drop lugs. This year's Tonda Annual Calendar is notable for the retrograde date around the top of the dial. Price: to be announced. Piaget aLtipLano skeLeton automatic Why it matters: Nobody makes a thin automatic movement quite like Piaget. But this 38mm watch is exceptional, with the micro-rotor giving the movement exceptionally good visibility. Oh, and the whole watch is 5.34mm thick. Crazy. Price: to be announced. expected to be around $60,000.    roger dubuiS La monegasQue FLying tourbiLLon Why it matters: roger Dubuis will complete a comprehensive relaunch of the brand by the end of this year. in the first phase, last year, the brand launched the La Monegasque range, a superb range of muscular, masculine watches, with solid in-house movements. This year, it adds to the range with a new flying tourbillon, a piece that highlights the brand's watchmaking ability, and the versatility of the collection. Price: 130,000    Swiss francs VaCheron ConStantin patrimony traDitionneLLe 14-Days tourbiLLon Why it matters: There is always more to a vacheron than meets the eye. And the 2012 Patrimony tourbillon is no different. There are four springs inside this watch that give it a mammoth 336 hours of power reserve. with a superb movement that maintains consistent torque. All set into vacheron's clean, elegant Patrimony design. very, very desirable. very, very expensive. Price: 189,000    riChard miLLe rm 037 Why it matters: if you're wondering where you've seen one, rafael Nadal wears one always. even when he plays. That is because richard Mille makes watches that are not only solid, but also tremendously light. The rM 037 is classic richard Mille with the signature case design, skeletonized movement and high-quality materials. There is plenty going on here, including a mode selection pusher at four o'clock that determines what the crown can adjust. Price: to be announced.